Tudor Novelties 2023 Presented at Watches and Wonders

This year, TUDOR paves the way for the future by paying homage to its past. The newest addition to the Black Bay line, the Black Bay 54, is a purely modern expression of the brand’s first dive watch, launched in 1954.

Regarding the expansion of the pre-existing offer of Black Bay watches, TUDOR presents a new Black Bay with a burgundy bezel equipped with the latest technical and aesthetic developments, as well as new declinations of the Black Bay 31/36/39/41 in steel with a fixed bezel. The Black Bay GMT line is enriched with a new and original model with an opaline dial combined with the emblematic burgundy and blue bezel, animated by a Manufacture Caliber with remarkable qualities. Finally, the TUDOR Royal sees the arrival of two beautiful new dials: chocolate-colored and salmon-colored.

The spirit of the Black Bay 54 watch

The Black Bay line celebrates many of TUDOR’s earliest dive watches: today, with the new Black Bay 54, the Brand chooses to offer a model more faithful than ever to its very first dive watch, Reference 7922. The 37 mm case echoes the classic proportions of yesteryear, but packs all of TUDOR’s modern know-how into the Manufacture Caliber MT5400 and boasts water resistance to 200 m.

As in Reference 7922, the unidirectional bezel has no minute scale-which is reminiscent of the early 1950s, when scuba diving was in its infancy and TUDOR created a watch for the brave few who dared to try their hand at this nascent sport. The new aesthetic details, however, are not limited to the size of the case and bezel. The “Lollipop” shaped second hand evokes that of the original model. The evolution is also visible ergonomically, with a redesigned crown and bezel and both featuring the proportions of the historic model.

The Black Bay line was designed with the past in mind. For the Brand, paying homage to the prestigious designs that are at the origin of its unique aesthetic is crucial. While the Black Bay line has always incorporated emblematic elements of past TUDOR dive watches, the Black Bay 54 is perhaps the most faithful Black Bay model to a historical reference to date ever created. Known to have been evaluated and later adopted by the French and U.S. navies and widely used by diving professionals, the Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 is an extraordinary source of inspiration. The first models that aimed to reproduce this reference were distinguished by a small crown and, favoring a more essential and uniform aesthetic, lacked the now emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock. The Black Bay 54 is in keeping with this tradition and features multiple design details that, however small, make a big difference. This can be seen, for example, in the hands, which, in addition to being adjusted in proportion, are joined at the base, just as in the 1954 model. The bezel rim has also been redesigned, with a modern take on the ergonomic motif of Reference 7922.

Of course, the Black Bay 54 also features thoroughly contemporary elements, such as a satin-finished soleil dial and a “T-fit” clasp that fits perfectly on the wrist. And above all, a state-of-the-art movement: the Manufacture Caliber MT5400.

The Manufacture Caliber MT5400 that animates the Black Bay 54 indicates hours, minutes and seconds. It features the characteristic finish of all TUDOR Manufacture Calibers. Its one-piece tungsten rotor is exposed and satin-finished with sandblasted details, while the bridges and plate have alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces and laser decoration.

With its variable-inertia balance wheel, held in place by a sturdy through-bridge with two attachment points, it is designed for strength and precision. Together with the antimagnetic silicon balance spring, this system enables the Manufacture Caliber MT5400 to operate in a fully assembled watch within a six-second tolerance range (-2/+4).


Another outstanding feature of the Manufacture MT5400 movement is its “weekend-proof” autonomy, which is about 70 hours. This means that the wearer can, for example, take the watch off on Friday night and put it back on his or her wrist on Monday morning without having to recharge it. Therefore, even when you have to leave for the weekend, the clock can wait quietly at home.

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The new Black Bay

The first Black Bay model was introduced in 2012 with a burgundy bezel and, in 2016, was reintroduced with Manufacture Caliber. From its evolution today comes a third timepiece that foreshadows the aesthetic and technical future of the line. The new Black Bay, a watch with the emblematic design of the TUDOR collection, is yet another example of how the Brand masters one of the highest standards in chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Subjected to testing by METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, this model combines state-of-the-art watchmaking technology and design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven decades of experience in producing robust professional dive watches.

METAS’ Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers all major functional characteristics of a watch, including accuracy, resistance to magnetic fields, water resistance, and autonomy. The standards involved are incredibly high, starting with accuracy. Indeed, a watch is eligible where the variation in the daily rate falls within a range of five seconds (0 +5), i.e., five seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC) standards (-4 +6) in a single movement and one second less than TUDOR’s internal standard, which applies to models of the Brand equipped with a Manufacture Caliber (-2 +4). The certification also guarantees the watch’s accuracy when subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, and that the manufacturer’s stated waterproof capacity complies with the International Organization for Standardization’s ISO 22810:2010 standard, which also applies to the autonomy of each Master Chronometer watch. It is also important to note that there are two essential prerequisites for certification to be obtained: the Swiss manufacture must meet the criteria proper to the “Swiss Made” designation, while the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC).

The Black Bay comes with either a three-link bracelet in fully satin-finished steel or a five-link oval-shaped bracelet in satin-finished and polished steel, both equipped with a TUDOR “T-fit” clasp with a system for quick length adjustment. Easy to use, without the aid of any tools and through five positions, this handy system allows the wearer to instantly and precisely vary the total length of the bracelet up to a maximum of 8 mm. In addition to offering a pleasant feel, the ceramic ball bearings on the clasp allow the bracelet to be closed easily and securely.


Finally, the Black Bay is also available with a black rubber strap. The strap has a TUDOR “T-fit” clasp and comes in three sizes; it can also be cut to perfectly reflect the wearer’s wrist size. It features the emblematic “Snowflake” pattern on the inside to provide optimal grip, as well as the contoured shape designed specifically for the Black Bay.

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BLACK BAY 31/36/39/41

Black Bay 31/36/39/41 watches bring a new aesthetic to the Black Bay line. The cases with sinuous lines feature a combination of finishes that gives the timepieces a contemporary touch and is an expression of a design that, departing slightly from the spirit of the Brand’s iconic watch-instrument, becomes more sophisticated, versatile, unisex and elegant in appearance and character. Animated by Manufacture Calibers, these models are at the forefront of horological technological progress.

All Black Bay 31/36/39/41 models are available with a five-link 316L steel bracelet. It comes with a sturdy 316L steel clasp with TUDOR’s “T-fit” system for quick length adjustment. Easy to use, without the aid of any tools and through five positions, this handy system allows the wearer to instantly and precisely vary the length of the bracelet by up to 8 mm.

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The spirit of the Black Bay GMT

TUDOR’s Black Bay GMT offers everything you need. First of all, it has an extremely useful complication that enables the simultaneous display of multiple time zones: the GMT function, thanks to which it is possible to read the local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. Instantly recognizable by its rotating bezel, declined in deep blue and burgundy as with other models in the Black Bay collection, but in a matte version, the Black Bay GMT is also inspired by the early days of this unmistakable design.


Today, TUDOR enriches the offering with a new opaline dial that perfectly matches the iconic hues of the Black Bay GMT. The opaline dial features subtle silver highlights rather than a white coloration. Through galvanic treatment, the dial acquires a matte white-gray hue, while the contours of the indexes are darkened to create a sharp contrast. In addition to evoking the rise of mid-century commercial aviation, the fascinating opaline dial is distinguished by its great legibility.

The additional time zones are indicated by a red GMT “Snowflake” hand, a distinctive TUDOR aesthetic element, which makes one revolution of the dial in 24 hours, and a bi-directional rotating graduated 24-hour bezel. The 12-hour light hours are in the burgundy section, while the night hours are in the blue section.


Featuring a 41 mm steel case, the Black Bay GMT is water resistant to 200 m and is designed to withstand the elements. The winding crown tube is made of satin-finished steel-a first for the Black Bay line that creates aesthetic continuity with the case and crown. The contrasting opaline dial ensures excellent readability under all circumstances and, thanks to the luminescent markers, even at night.

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New dials for the Tudor Royal

TUDOR expands the range of dials in the much-loved Royal line with a salmon-colored and a chocolate-colored variant with a satin soleil finish and a striking, refined aesthetic. The Royal family offers sporty and elegant automatic watches with integrated bracelets, affordable price and sophisticated design. With state-of-the-art technical performance and refined aesthetics, this line presents timepieces at the crossroads between classic and sporty models. The name Royal was first used by TUDOR in the 1950s to emphasize the superior quality of its watches, a quality that still distinguishes the Brand’s products today. Models are offered in stainless steel or steel and gold, in four sizes and with thirteen possible dials to reflect every personality.

The TUDOR Royal line chooses the soleil motif for its dials. Available in black, silver, blue, champagne, chocolate, or salmon, the soleil motif radiates from the center of the dials, creating elegant reflections and light effects that lend additional elegance to the Royal models. The line is completed by a mother-of-pearl version with diamonds for the smaller diameter. For an additional chic touch, the Brand has added applied Roman numerals to its TUDOR Royal watches. All dials are available with applied numerical indexes or a combination of applied numerical indexes and eight diamond indexes.

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